Liquidator leaving arching/rainbow lines

Hi all,

I’ve started to use a trad poll and I’m using the liquidator on the excellerator handle.

I’ve watched near enough every video I can find on the liquidator and I’m not so bad with it when using it in hand, but when I do side side glide, majority of the time I will have a small trail of water from my leading edge when fanning/hand gliding. Most of the time the water will disappear, but if you look really close you can see a faint line where it was.

I’ve tried changing various things but to no avail, and I wonder if anybody here has had the same problem and found the solution?

Thanks in advance!

Have you tried Ettore rubber? Have you tried a Ettore channel?

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Hi John,

Thanks for the reply. I did put a pre cut 14inch Ettore rubber in earlier however it seemed way to big for the channel, I do have a 36inch one which I’ll cut down and try and let you know how I get on.

Thanks

If the rubber sticks out too much from the edge of the blue “dog ear” tip, it will flex too much and not have the effect that the liquidator channel and tips were designed for. The rubber will bend and allow a very fine line to be left behind rather than collecting all of the water under the edge.

Take a picture of the way you have the rubber in the channel and a close up of how far it sticks out from the blue tip.

Hi Johnlee and GSARMedic, just thought I’d let you know that I’ve put an Ettore master soft rubber in and cut it alot closer to the blue clips and it’s much better now, just need the much needed practice now!

Thank you for your help!

The excelerator can feel very awkward at first, shouldn’t take to much practice to get it down though. It’s now one of my favorite tools!

Check out videos by Polzn bladz on youtube. He is pretty much THE guy when it comes to Moerman gear and the tips and tricks to get the best results with them.

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Cutting rubber: We use a guillotine style cutter - place the lead edge (window side of rubber) into the jaws of the cutter and squeeze the cutter handle cutting the lead edge first, this will eliminate a jagged edge on the blade side. You can also use a razor blade - remember to cut from the cleaning edge first toward the ledger side of rubber. This will eliminate any burr or flake of rubber from leaving a water trail on your glass.

My advice is throw that channel in the trash!! I’m serious

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Hello Steve. I watched a lot of your videos and learnt a lot but i dont understand why do you hate the liquidator so much? i’ve been using the liquidator on a pole and there is just 0 detailing on the sides. I had the same problem as the author of this thread but then i just changed the angle on the handle and it works amazing. I also want to try and use it in hand because hading no rubber on the sides that can catch the frames and having to go slow to not have rubber going on the frame if its low is very annoying and i dont see that with the design on the liquidator. Can you tell me why would you suggest it? Thank you

The liquidator channel…to me is the worst quality channel on the market. Does it create zero detailing on the edges, most of the time yes…but what most don’t pay attention to is what it’s leaving on the middle of the glass from the rubber being pushed down on the edges. Guarantee that everyone who uses it leaves arching streaks across the glass. I’ve used it off and on the past 5 years and never I have I been impressed. Also with even light pressure it skips and leaves small skips across the glass. Also, it shreds rubbers so quick it doesn’t even make since to use it. The new blue Moerman rubber in a brass ettore channel lasts up to two weeks, in a liquidator channel it may last you a day or two days before both sides of the edges shred and leave lines across the glass. There is all kinds of mods out there that the main two fan boys of it try to explain to everyone such as use paper clips in the ends or add soap straight to the glass to use it correctly. I don’t want a channel that needs paper clips in it to work ok or do I want an extra step of adding dish soap to each window so that the tool works ok. Many think that if they can use this tool they’re on a different level then cleaners who use brass channels etc: give me a day with someone who thinks this and I’ll prove to them why they should never use it by the poor quality that’s being left on the glass. Many veteran window cleaners do not use this tool such as Luke, AE mackintosh, T squeegee, etc. because they know it’s crap. I would make a video on this but honestly it’s not worth it

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Hmm… I understand the quality issue, but when it works I love it. I think there are many people who want to know what’s with the liquidator and that would be great to see a video about it if you want to make one, of course. The reason, why I don’t want to change to the brass channel, is because of detailing on the sides but I think it might be easier to detail sides than deal with the tool problems when I have no time to spare. I think I will try to order a new channel as soon as I can. Thank you for your response!

If you would like to try a different channel with the Excelerator that is super easy to switch out and no end clips to deal with, try the Stainless Steel Unger channels. You can get one to fit which ever size fliq pad that you already have, the teeth on the handle line up with the notches on the channel. It is good to keep an extra set of fliq clips since they fit really snug and can break. Watch @Luke original mod video for the tool, just trying this channel instead.

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Thank you. I will try another channel, but I’m a bit worried about the detailing aspect and the thing that rubber sticks out of the channel and can grip to frames which is harder to control on a pole.

@Luke explained how he doesn’t detail here. As far as the rubber gripping the frames I’ve never had that problem. I use an Excelerator with an Ettore brass channel, I haven’t had the fliq clips break on me yet.

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Thank you for your response! I will order a stainless steel or brass channel for the excelerator and practice to achieve clean windows without detailing. The most important part is that it’s possible.

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Not sure if anyone has mentioned this to you, but look back at some videos where the guys dive bomb with it. Where they cut down both sides of a pane first, then they go back and swipe side to side wiping down the whole center.

For example: when you squeegee down the right hand side of the pane, the right side of your channel should be a good bit lower than the left, this gets the edge of the squeegee cutting right down the edge reducing the detail work for yourself.

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That’s what I figured works the best, thanks for the advice!

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