Now is your chance to ask!
I started looking into waterfed WC back in 2011 because I was reading references to it all over the forum. But I didn’t understand what it was.
It has been an ongoing education that can be overwhelming to start in on.
So, what are your questions? What are you confused about with it?
I will break the ice by saying that you can break it down into 3 parts:
No question is viewed as stupid! FIRE AWAY…
How often should you replace resin?
Do you need perfectly pure water or “close enough”?
Is it OK to store a waterfed system inside of a hot van in Florida at 120 degrees in the van?
Does water pressure matter a whole lot?
I second all of Chris’s Questions. Except my xero pure system, minus the pole is exposed to the Central Florida heat and rain as it is mounted on a trailer.
To add:
5. Would using a hose with a larger diameter AND more tensile rigidity (hose which is a little more immune to pressure expansion/swelling) improve pressure at the end of longer runs of hose between the filter and the brush?
**I currently use 200ft of the 5/16 in Xero hose, which is nice for flexibility and attaching straight to the brush through the pole without excess hose when collapsed.
Replace resin when output TDS reaches 10-15 ppm.
You always want 0000 ppm, but you may get spot free results with slightly higher tds.
Heat will always speed up a chemical process, so it may accelerate bacterial growth in the RO filter if exposed to extreme heat. Black PVC casing will also accelerate these processes.
The flow coming out of your water source does make a difference, especially at heights 3 stories and above, and with an RO system.
Yes. Some folks like to use 3/8 hose for their first 100’ from 3-stage filtration to pole, and then adapt down to 5/16 at the pole.
Something like this:
https://windowcleaner.com/rhg-handy-carry-reel-100-foot?pt=9G
As @TheWindowCleanse said, you want 00 tds, but I’ve found that I can get spot free as long as I’m below 10 ppm. I always do a few windows then go back and spot check. The windows will still be wet but I can see how it’s starting to dry.
@AdamPWC I can confirm perfect results at 40ppm (straight rain water of the mains tap).
I have also had perfect results with 30+ ppm running threw the ro/do system.
I am ocd with perfection and will not accept lesser results (no spotting, no streaks/runs and no bee pollen the glass must be 100% otherwise the ladder comes out) so please don’t think it will give a “near enough” result. The results are perfect).
It actually comes down to which specific minerals are left behind in the water (the white minerals show up the most) not so much down to total mineral content (ppm) which is just an indicator.
I have spoken directly to a manufacture that has a much greater understanding and am no longer worried about a small amount of ppm.
That’s interesting, and makes enough sense. For my area at least, that’s just what I’ve noticed, if I’m above 10ppm, I end up with white spots. This is only my second year using WFP though.
@GSARMedic I run 300 ft of 3/8 hose then l connect 50-100 ft of 3/16 lead hose which runs up the pole to the brush. I have great flow with this setup and run 4 pencil jets and the rinse bar at the same time,but l also use Di tanks no RO needed in my area as my TDS runs around 50-75.
Welcome to the group neighbor! (From NE Tennessee)
Thanks Man!
Welcome to the forums.
I did change my setup after the responses back in July. My setup is as follows:
3/4" supply line from the house runs through a sediment and separate charcoal filter ending in a 200 gallon buffer tank.
A 3/4" vinyl hose runs from a tap to a 7gpm 12v on-demand pump which then pushes the water through a second charcoal filter, the RO filter, and the DI resin before continuing in a 3/4" hose to a T on the opposite side of my trailer where the in-line TDS meter is mounted.
The water then runs into a reel with 100’ of 3/8" hose which is then connected via a hose barb to the 100’ (5/16") Xero pure line that attaches directly to the brush head after running through the pole.
I have been getting decent pressure with using both the rinse bar and 2 pencil jets.
Awesome! Glad to hear your getting better results. I know l commented way after the fact,but you never know if someone may still need some help. 
Over the weekend, I discovered my tds coming out of the tank was above 50ppm, but only after having cleaned some windows. I still managed a spot free finish somehow…
My question is: How do I get a spot free finish sometimes, but then not others, even though the reading is the same both times?
Because not all hard water is created equal.
There are many types of silica, minerals, metals, etc.
Some are more prone to spotting/staining than others.
I have been guessing that freezing would probably ruin the RO filter. Is that correct?
Also, how should the unit be stored over winter for a few months?
Can you run a T-splitter on your 3/16" hose and successfully run 2 poles with just house pressure? Unsure of what the PSI is, but I get a ton of pressure for 1 pole.
If you run a small 12V pump do you need a water tank on the truck?
On a DI tank, yes, up to 2 stories, maybe one on 3 stories.
Yes, usually. What is the gpm rating on the pump?
Use this on the second line, at the output of the filtration. It helps if you need to shut one line down.
Or outfit both poles with Univalves.